3 cocktail sticks were added to hold it and stop it turning over. My LED lights shine sideways from the socket so it was easy to point it upwards. I used a 7mm wood drill bit to add a hole for the cable by hand, and passed the cable through. These are 12V so nice and safe and easy to power with an 8AA battery pack or a wall wart (I have since used both). Luckily I had some GU4 bulb holders and LED lights hanging over from my exhaust lamp project. However my pumpkin was made for my work competition and naked flames in the office is a no-no. I'd probably remove the mouth behind the teeth too. If I was doing this I'd add an eyelid to support the iris/pupil of the eye and remove the white of the eye. Traditionally a pumpkin should be illuminated with fire, for which you would need to add air holes. Placing the banana in the hand centrally to keep it balanced finishes the look. Another cocktail stick holds the other arm on. Three parallel vertical cocktail sticks in the base allows the main pumpkin to be carefully lowered on to be much more stable. I also made a number of radial cuts to the iris to differentiate it from the pupil. Using two angled scalpel cuts to remove thin strips of skin I added edges to the dungaree straps, details to the goggle, pockets, and the Gru Industries logo (copied from the reference image). The arm slid on easily but needed some force.Īt this point I realised it wasn't coming off so I had to be careful finishing the details off: I then used skewers to make two more parallel holes in the pumpkin at the correct angle to hold the arm. I marked the place where the arm would go by pressing the ends of the skewers in to mark the flesh. I inserted one skewer 3 inches into the arm and then another beside it being careful to make sure it was very parallel (by eye). I used two bamboo skewers cut down to about 6 inches (150mm). The arm that holds the banana needs really good mechanical attachment. I recommend finishing all the carved details before assembly to avoid working around a relatively fragile arm like I had to. Picking a small banana really helps.Īlso there is plenty of spare material in this pumpkin if it doesn't go right first time. This arm needs leaving stockier to take the weight of the banana. Then cut away as much material as you dare without losing the strength required while carving the gloved hand. Hold the banana against the end and then mark and cut a groove that just fits the banana. The hand holding the banana needs to be a bit oversize. You will find the shape somewhat controlled by the curvature of the donor pumpkin but minion arms are generally curved so it looks ok. The arm without the banana is a slender arm with a gloved hand carved on the end, again using the loop tool. I left the tops of the shoes with skin on so the colour looks better Other than carving shoe shapes this can be crudely cut out as it isn't very visible. A relatively stable base can be achieved because much of it is hidden under the main pumpkin. Cut away the visible area, leaving the base for the pumpkin to sit on and the two feet. Place the minion pumpkin on top and find the position in which it fits most stably and mark all the visible areas except where you want the feet to stick out. Place the slice cut side down on a chopping board and try to level it as required until it stands squarely without rocking or bending. Slice the base off the second pumpkin as flat as you can and about an inch (25mm) thick. Better to fix it now than put in all the effort and not be happy later. If at this point the face is too big or small, it is easy to rub off the design with IPA and do it again. It is important to keep track of how much of the pumpkin should be face. Adding the attachment detail helps make the design hang together but is not strictly needed.įor the mouth I copied from my reference picture freehand. Draw along the top edge of the elastic band, then reposition for the lower edge of the strap (make sure it is constant width all the way around) and draw again. In order to make the strap for the goggle I wrapped an elastic band around the pumpkin - this achieves a much more natural line than trying to draw it free hand. I also added a line inside and a line outside the goggle circle to add thickness and leave the middle line to carve out so the goggle ring gets illuminated. Bear in mind that the Sharpie can leave stains on the cut edges when wiped off so try to avoid marking areas that won't be cut off or remove lines before cutting where possible.įor the goggle, I found a suitably sized aerosol cap and drew around it. I generally tried to keep the marks to areas of skin that would be removed but I also used IPA and kitchen towel to remove other marks when needed. I drew my design in Sharpie (other permanent marker brands are available).
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